Often I find myself wondering about that life and the events that might have marked the decades of a particular watch's life, The places it might have been, the action it might have seen. In almost all cases these are left to nothing more than my own musing and imagination. I'll be lucky enough to know a little of the history from the previous owner and get a sense of the journey of a watch but nothing more...usually.
Which is why the subject of this particular piece brings me so much joy in the sharing. This watch represents exactly what I love about this business for I had the pleasure of meeting the daughter of the original and only owner of this absolutely beautiful Rolex 5508 from 1958.
She shared with me the story of how this watch was a gift from her grandfather to her father on his 16th birthday in 1958 as he joined his first ship in the Royal Navy. The watch journeyed with him throughout his travels and was worn daily, as you can see. This treasured gift has lived a life (and a life at sea no less!) but most importantly the owner had the foresight to keep the watch completely original even though it has been regularly serviced and keeps perfect time.
The Rolex Submariner 5508 was released in late 1957 so this example, dating from a year later, is amongst the earliest and has the hallmark early cal 1530 with the original butterfly rotor. The serial number of the watch corresponds to the inner case back engraving dated 11/58 confirming the genealogy of the watch.
Sean Connery famously wore an early no crown guard Submariner in three Bond films and so early references like the 5508 are fondly associated with this famous franchise, much loved by watch collectors.
I make no apologies for not changing the original tropic plexiglass even though it shows some signs of wear. I believe that is what imbues this remarkable watch with character. It wears it's battle scars proudly! But under the plexi you can see a totally original gloss gilt dial which has a beautiful spidering to the lacquer making this a completely unique piece, along with the original dial go the untouched original full handset. The lume on the hour markers and hands has aged perfectly to a desirable coffee colour, (again much loved amongst vintage watch collectors.)
This unique example is capped off with a faded (ghost) bezel and comes fitted to a quality black alligator strap as the original rivet bracelet sadly didn’t survive the rigours of daily wear for over 5 decades!
This is a piece worthy of any collection but also a watch that’s as perfect for daily wear now as it was when first proudly worn by a 16-year-old man embarking on his first voyage. I can’t help but wonder who will continue its story.
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Arguably the association between Omega and James Bond has increased significantly since the casting of the first 'blonde Bond' Daniel Craig. He has sported many Omegas in the five hugely successful films he has appeared in with the Seamaster being the most common. However eagle eyed watch lovers may have also noticed a number of other Omegas that have graced the wrist of 007.
An Omega Cal 321 very similar to this 1965 example can be fleetingly seen at the end of Spectre as our hero drives away in his 1965 Aston Martin DB5. Perfect product alignment and a testament to the level of attention to detail that goes into this enduring relationship.
Likewise this stunning Omega Aqua Terra was introduced in homage to the association between the movie franchise and Swiss manufacturer. One of many limited edition issues to have celebrated a partnership that has become synonymous with elite brand associations.
Omega, as a brand doesn't need to prove its cojones to anyone. After all we are talking about a brand that has the legacy of official Olympic timekeeper and first watch on the moon just to name two. But there is no doubt that adorning the wrist of James Bond has helped cement Omega as the premier Swiss watch manufacturer for a whole new generation of watch lovers.
With the latest instalment of the film franchise in the shape of No Time To Die hitting the screens this month (perhaps the best bond movie of all time in my view!) the association between Omega and 007 is set to continue as long as the world finds itself in peril and where every second counts!
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Ordinarily the response to higher inflation would be an increase in interest rates to cool an overheating economy. But with the country emerging from the greatest financial shock in 300 years that policy is almost nigh on impossible. Which means interest rates will have to remain low for many quarters to come. The result will almost certainly be much higher inflation than the Bank of England would ordinarily like. The other consequence is that money, in it's purest form will become worth less and less. Your money that is.
I'm not pretending that investing in vintage watches is the panacea of all investment opportunities but the fact remains that in times of financial turmoil (I think the current situation counts as such!) the smart investor will often move money in commodities such as gold and other investible luxuries.
All of which is a long way of saying that my guaranteed full value future part exchange scheme is now becoming something more than a way to just protect your money for the longterm, it could actually be a way to almost lock in an increase in the real value of your money.
Of course not everyone wants to invest in that way, but even if you are sitting on the fence about taking the plunge for that much admired timepiece, now might be the very best time to take that step. There is no such thing as a guaranteed yield, but sometimes the economic outlook points you to an obvious conclusion. I think that time might be now.
And don't forget, looking at a beautiful timepiece that is also safe guarding your cash is a much nicer experience that just looking a bank balance that is depreciating by the day!
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I've always thought it's a sign of a relative lack of confidence for a company to make so many upgrades and changes on such a regular basis. Almost as if they are searching for their own zeitgeist. It makes owning one their watches as a potential investment piece for a serious collector almost impossible to gauge. No sooner do you have a watch in your possession than the company in question has a new version in the market place, at which point they strive to tell you why it's so much better than the one you've just invested your hard earned cash into. Not for me.
A 'Mark' upgrade for me has to be something that evolves as a result of years of circulation, countless reviews, user feedback, technological advancement and perhaps cultural changes. So when Rolex upgrades its Submariner, regardless of what you might think of those changes, you can be certain the company has taken its time to consider every aspect of the new version and why they felt the need to do it. You might not like it! But you can't argue it's impetuous!
Which brings me to the subject of my own favourite marks. I've chosen three here which are personal favourites.
This Omega Speedmaster Mk III with its unique blue dial was a real departure for the company at the time and was introduced in the early 1970’s, intended as a bold statement moving away from the more subtle Speedmaster MK II Professional chronograph, which replaced the original and iconic moon watch (although all three models remained in the range until the late 1970’s and the moon watch has never left the range).
The MK III was the first Speedmaster Professional to be equipped with an automatic chronograph movement, the calibre 1040, which went on to form the basis of Omegas Chronograph range in various guises right up until the late 1990’s. It is a remarkable piece of engineering and was designed to have the same Professional application durability as the watch itself.
The MK III is an amazing piece of design, and the striking blue dial is among the hardest to find and most sort after variants of this model.
Mentioning Rolex earlier brought to mind one of the great ranges which anchored this amazing brand, the Explorer. Introduced in 1971 the Explorer MK11 was purposely made for a select sporting group of speleologists (or cave explorers to you and I ) Now, I have to confess I am not sure who at Rolex thought that was a great gap in the market but needless to say the watch was not generally well received when it was launched. That is almost certainly the sign of a great brand challenging its base of devotees. When you don't change a watch for decades, then don't be surprised if your brand advocates rebel! If we could go back in time and hoover up all those unsold MkII's then we'd make s serious killing now, so popular have these watches become.
The third watch in this particular triptych of famous marks is perhaps the less well known amongst the three, but it is a watch I personally find intriguing and unique.
The Omega Flightmaster was developed in the late 1960’s by Omega for the use of commercial pilots. One Omega advert from the period actually states " we made a watch for the man up front in a Boeing "This watch was designed to allow the wearer to view the time in two separate zones instantly”.
The Flightmaster was introduced in two executions, the first running calibre 910 with a plexi crystal, the second running the cal 911, this example is the latter second generation offers the improved calibre 911 hand wound chronograph movement which is recognized easily as it moves the seconds dial to 9 o'clock position and also by the improved anti reflective and anti abrasive flat tempered mineral crystal.
I also think it looks absolutely wonderful and presents a very distinctive and different feel to other watches of the same 1970's era.
These are all watches that I believe illustrate the real value of an upgrade to a new 'Mark'. The result of improvements in technology, the pursuit of tool watches to enhance user experience and the appliance of years of knowledge from use and feedback. That's the kind of heritage you really want in a watch. Especially if you are looking for something that will not only give you years of wearing pleasure but also a secure financial investment for the future.
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Of course my thoughts also immediately went to perhaps one of the most famous of all watches, the Omega Speedmaster Professional. The official manned space flight watch chosen by NASA in the 1960's after an exhausting and challenging search for a watch capable of withstanding the rigours of space exploration. I've told this story before but it's always worth repeating. Omega didn’t make the Speedmaster specifically for NASA, the original design from 1957 was adopted by the administration as a flight watch in 1965 and subsequently made it to the moon and back on every mission thereafter. For me it’s actually more impressive that Omega were able to deliver an existing timepiece for these missions. I can imagine NASA technicians giving a briefing of the technical requirements and challenges of space travel to the Omega executive who in turn, opened a display case and casually tossed the Speedmaster across the table with the words “That should do the job.” Nice thought but the reality from the perspective of Omega was probably more useful to their eventual marketing efforts in that the Speedmaster was the only watch from an original shortlist of 6 to withstand a barrage of tests which included low and high pressure and temperature extremes, shock, acceleration, humidity and vibration. (Eat your heart out COSC!)
I've no doubt these days NASA and SpaceX have an array of digital timepieces which can tell the time, check your pulse, clock the orbits and land the thing on the moon, but for me that would be missing a trick. It would be missing a sense of adventure and a spirit of exploration that was somehow perfectly summed up by a design icon of the 1960's that showed engineering excellence would always be more appealing than simple digital capability.
I think there could be nothing more inspirational than to see the Omega Speedmaster strapped to the wrists of the next generation of astronauts. And in the spirit of "all for one" I'm happy to help them by supplying some very striking examples of the first watch certified for manned space flight. I happen to have a few in my collection and I'd be prepared to discuss a bulk discount obviously. In fact I'll just loan them to NASA and they can return them after the successful mission. I offer that only in the interests of esprit de corps or course!
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For me something you could easily wear to the beach comes to mind. There are no shortage of suitable dive options, from the ever dependable Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster collections through to the less obvious, but equally appealing in my view, Longines and Bulovas. Perhaps something with a little colour might be nice too. Often the choice of strap can play a major part in the suitability of a watch. And if it can withstand me splashing around helplessly in water, well then that's just an added bonus.
Ideally it should be something not too expensive as you don't want to spend your entire time worried about any little scratch. (I rarely do anyway). Although of course it's always nice to have something to show off at the BBQ or, if you're fortunate enough, the captain's table.
So with these admittedly random criteria in my head here are four watches that I think would be ideal Summer companions. They range from the very affordable to the slightly more wallet stretching, but all of them will, I am sure, help you while away the endless sun drenched hours of a typical British Summer!
To kick things off I absolutely love this Record Pvd vintage dive watch which I think is fun, distinctive and a definite conversation starter whatever the occasion. Dating from the 1970's with a striking blue face and black and red bezel it comes armed for the elements with a sturdy rubber strap. All for less than £1000. An absolute bargain.
Next up is Waltham Blancpain Paul Newman. A watch that I have waxed lyrical about before. But still one that I think is an a gem of a piece for any collection. Superb build quality and an incredibly eye catching watch, it even comes with a alternative mesh bracelet which, whilst being a perfect for any season, doesn't quite scream Summer in the way this yellow tropic strap does!
And taking of straps, this Omega Seamaster 120 Jumbo from (incredibly) 1969, wouldn't seem quite so perfect to me without the addition of this stunning red and black sports strap which just perfectly complements the subtle, yet complex dial of this classic piece. I'm certain no one else will have this watch, whatever event you are attending this Summer.
Last, but not least, I offer you perhaps the more obvious example of the classic adventure watch in the shape of this beautiful blue dial Rolex Yacht Master from 2020. Rolex actually discontinued the blue face option after this last issue so not only will you get the chance to own something truly beautiful and impossibly well built, you'll actually be buying something as close to guaranteed appreciation as you can get.
So there you have just a small selection of watches I might be breaking out during the coming months. That's assuming of course my discerning customers don't decide to treat themselves this Summer! It's not as though we don't all deserve a treat is it?
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It's nobody's fault and I'm not looking to reopen any debates on the subject of Brexit, but the fact remains that as a result of the UK leaving the EU on the 31st January the price of buying a watch from the continent has just increased by an automatic 20%. That, as regular readers will know, can be a significant chunk of change on a beautiful vintage Swiss timepiece. It can also be a nasty and unexpected surprise for the unwary buyer tempted by a seemingly attractive list price on a watch from the plethora of international vendors.
Make no mistake, I've sourced many watches from the continent in the years I've been collecting and dealing, and many of my trusted colleagues overseas are just as despondent at the new world we live in. But the fact remains that for many, the cost of buying in their beloved timepieces from the EU has just become untenable.
But fear not, I have a solution (you knew that didn't you). The answer, as it has always been, is right under your nose. Support your UK dealers! In anticipation of the any changes brought about by Brexit, I have reached out to a wider network of suppliers and dealers the length and breadth of the UK, to ensure that the selection of watches I am able to bring to my customers remains unchanged and if anything enhanced. Whats more that selection of UK supplied watches is not subject to any import tariffs or unexpected VAT fees. In other words what you see is what you, at the price you agree it.
And, don’t get me started on the delays we are experiencing at border control into the country or the stories of parcel missing whilst delayed .
So if you're looking for the very latest Swiss, US, Japanese, Italian, French or German timepieces, there really has never been a better time to buy British!
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Thankfully the answer came within the year when aviator Santos Dumont requested a wristwatch from his friend Louis Cartier that he could wear on his manned flights. The eventual design was a squared-faced watch with exposed screws on the bezel which was later officially launched and named the Cartier Santos in 1911. The Cartier Santos served the purposes of calculating fuel consumption, air speed, lift capacity, navigation and finally, as well as basic timekeeping. And so the symbiotic relationship between timepieces and aviation was born.
Two world wars played a hugely important part in the evolution of aviation timepieces when, quite literally, lives depended on the accuracy of timekeeping whilst flying. During this time the definitive style of flight watches was established too thanks to the innovate approach of watchmakers such as IWC, Zenith, Laco and Breguet, followed by the legends created by Breitling, Rolex and Omega to name just a few. To the extent that the hallmarks of those initial design cues can still be seen in today's pilot watches.
Oversized cases, incredibly legible indices and clear design and functionality became the definitive style for a whole new genre of watches. Today those design features can be found in abundance in most modern iterations of the pilot watch. My own collection boasts some wonderful examples, from this stunning Breitling Chronomat with its sumptuous 44mm blue face, to one of the all time classic IWC pieces in the shape of this magnificent pilot chronograph. A watch I have worn on a few occasions now and one I can testify to being almost like brand new.
Even today brands such as Zenith are re-issuing classic pilot watches such as this Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph with its vintage style cues, oversized 45mm case and beautiful retro oiled unbuckle strap. And demand for these retro inspired pieces shows no signs of abating, which means prices for original vintage pilot watches are as strong as they ever were.
There is, quite literally nothing to compare with a pilot watch when it comes to appreciating the relationship between time and travel. There is something wondrously adventurous about these watches and the design history they carry so easily. And as far as watches of prominence go, very few get close to the wrist presence of a genuine pilot watch. So whilst our thanks must always go to the Wright brothers for their gigantic step forward in manned flight, we must not forget that it also ushered in an era of watch making that is still with us today.
]]>Which brings me to this week's topic of avarice, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rhodium ref 114300. Rolex of course covers the whole spectrum when it comes to utility and/or refinement and has a couple of contenders in the one watch category, (hello Explorer Mk1) but for me the closest this venerable watch brand comes to finding the ultimate one watch is this stunningly beautiful, practical, bullet proof Oyster Perpetual Rhodium.
This is literally a watch that could grace the Ambassador's ball one evening and be the perfect accompaniment to casual beach wear the following day. It has the timeless utility vibe which, let's be honest, nobody does better than Rolex, whilst at the same time retaining the dimensions perfectly suited to fitting inside a smart cuff. Not an easy combination to master. The sunburst Rhodium dial on this particular model is a simply stunning option and, surprisingly for Rolex, it has a playful blue highlight on the indices which just works so well it amazes me Rolex isn't more bold in it's use of dial colour.
The Oyster case and bracelet are, of course, without equal in this price bracket and offer that perfect balance between sports and dressiness so essential in a one watch option. Of the three types of face design available in this range I think this Rhodium option with blue accents is the most appropriate for the 'one watch' crown. The grape and blue face options also offered in this range exude a more youthful vibe while this one really does feel fit for every occasion, especially coming in at a very modern 39mm case size.
As you can probably tell, I'm a huge fan of this watch, which makes it all the more extraordinary that Rolex actually chose to discontinue this range. So it's clear that if you are looking for a one watch option ( or if you're a normal person 'just a watch') then the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Rhodium ref 114300 is a timepiece that is only going one way in value terms.
So for those of you who might only be in the market for one watch, or for a watch that you could throw on in the morning without thinking about it, this could be the perfect answer to an age old question.
]]>I'd like to introduce you to something very special. A 1968 Heuer 2446 Rindt with factory order Tachymeter dial. This might just be the most special watch that I hold in my hands this year!
It's easy to become blasé about the history of some of the watches that come across my desk. I love them all, or else I wouldn't have bought them in the first place. But in a collection of hundreds of watches, it's easy to lose sight of the excitement of stumbling across something that truly is one of a kind.
We hear the phrase 'one of kind' all the time and I've used it myself on more than one occasion. (I told Mrs Watch Collector she was marrying 'one of kind' on our wedding day and unfortunately she now agrees with me, but for all the wrong reasons!) But I hope you'll agree this is the kind of watch that makes you stop whatever it is you're doing in your busy life to just take in its sheer brilliance.
The name Jochen Rindt hopefully needs no introduction to fans of motor racing. This brilliant German born Austrian formula 1 racing driver was revered and loved for his fearlessness behind the wheel. He became the only world champion to be posthumously awarded the drivers championship in 1970 after being killed in a practice round of the Italian Grand Prix of that year, just a few races short of being crowned world champion. His skill and achievements, although cut tragically short, make him one of the most famous of drivers from an era that arguably stands as one of the most iconic periods in this most glorious of sports.
His choice of watch for most of his career was the Heuer 2446 and he collaborated with the famous old Swiss brand to produce this, a Heuer 2446 Rindt, complete with factory ordered tachymeter dial.
Any 2446 is a great watch but this is piece from c.1968 is, I believe, one of the most outstanding examples to come to the market for a long time. Not only is the watch in excellent, authentic condition, it also features the original, incredibly hard to find, Tachymeter dial which was supplied as a special factory order. To complement that, it comes complete with the original, beautifully preserved, Heuer bracelet which again is hardly ever seen. Together I think they represent perhaps the best example of this stunning watch to be found anywhere in the world.
The tachy dial, as already mentioned, was a special factory order and has many subtle differences from the standard dial. As a result of the tachy scale being placed on the dial edge, the hour markers are slightly different and obviously the placing of the unique triangle shaped lume plots is different which also results in slightly shorter minute hands than seen on the standard 2446. In addition, the bezel is the 1-to-12-hour marker type as preferred by Rindt himself.
The movement itself is the famous Valjoux 72 manual winding chronograph, a choice that was popular amongst other famous chronographs of the period and it remains as true today as it was over 50 years ago.
At a perfectly proportioned 38mm, the stainless steel case remains the same as the standard 2446 but the simply stunning condition of this piece is something to behold. Whatever you're doing today, I urge you to take a few moments to take a look at this little piece of history. A timepiece that perfectly capture the joy of motor racing and watch collecting at perhaps the height of their respective powers.
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As I look out of the window of my study it even feels as though Spring is making an attempt to join in with the growing sense positivity that is sweeping the nation. I wouldn't go as far as to say my garden is a riot of daffodils but there is a definite shift in mood that is reflected in nature, the speed of vaccinations and, dare I say it, the vintage watch market. Regular observers of my site will have noticed a huge influx of timepieces over the last few weeks, driven in part by my industry first 'guaranteed value part exchange promise' which has proved hugely popular with collectors, but also by a general feeling that we all deserve to treat ourselves for a change. My goodness we've earned that haven't we?
So recently I've been delighted to be able to record my best ever month of sales and part exchanges, with the future looking just as bright. It's meant I've been able to introduce new watches at a rate I've never been able to do before, meaning fresh new products almost daily and a variety of timepieces that I believe offers something for literally every taste.
Why has this happened? Well firstly I think the new guarantee I introduced at the end of last year has helped to give buyers a lot more confidence that they can buy with peace of mind and really explore their taste in watches without worrying they are paying too high a price for today's latest thing. Also there is no doubt that the pandemic has clearly created a pent up reserve of capital that people feel tempted to invest in a passion. Equally the prospect of negative interest rates means it might actually cost us to keep our money with the banks. (Hands up who finds that an attractive prospect?) So all in all, collecting pre-owned watches with a guaranteed future buy back clause has never seemed so...well...sensible!
Finally I am able to look Mrs Watch Collector in the eye and say I told you so. Collecting and dealing in vintage watches really is a great business idea and, paradoxically, a venture with a very bright future! Of course I haven't actually looked her in the eye and said those words as such...!
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For me the beauty of a vintage watch purchase is that, as investment pieces go, there are few things you can put money into that offer you quite the same visceral pleasure as a beautiful pre-owned watch. However, in recognising that, for some people, the blocker to purchase is always going to be a thorny question of future value, there was really only one option left for me. Putting my money firmly where my mouth is.
So I'm delighted to be able to introduce to my loyal and regular readers the first ever full value future part exchange guarantee on all vintage watches purchased from The Watch Collector. It couldn't be simpler really. I'm basically ensuring that, at the very least, every customer can buy a vintage watch knowing that I will guarantee that full value of that watch when it comes to any part exchange in the future. Real value locked in from day one until the day you, as a customer, decide to exchange your watch as a part exchange option on any future purchase from The Watch Collector.
In other words, your money is safe. So really the only choice you have is whether you want your cash locked in a safe somewhere (in all likelihood making zero interest) or whether you would like to gaze down lovingly at a beautiful vintage watch, safe in the knowledge is effectively costing you nothing to enjoy something that can bring pleasure for generations.
So the next time someone asks you why you invest in vintage watches and whether they are worth investing in. you know the answer!
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A little research later and an investigation of my collection did result in the sample selection before us today. Not all period pieces unfortunately but a great selection of watches that have all been worn by members of the Royal Family from time to time. It's a well known fact that Prince Charles has a long association from the 1980's with Jaeger Le Coultre and famously sported the Reverso during his polo playing days. Perhaps one of the few people to own the watch and wear it for the purpose it was actually intended!
Hi younger brother Prince Andrew is still frequently see wearing a classic Rolex Day Date the very embodiment of classic style and elegance. And a watch that defines the phrase 'timeless'. Indeed this iconic example dates from 1967 although due to its timeless design and how well cared for it has been you really would never know if age. Small wonder it is a favourite of the royals.
Interestingly enough his daughter Beatrice follows the modern trend for women with discerning watch taste by wearing a beautiful Rolex Air King on steel bracelet. A watch that although designed as a 'mans' watch is perfectly suited to the modern day style of larger watches worn by women. It is also a stunning watch, princess or not.
In terms of the right watch for the right person, it's perhaps left to Prince William, future King and Navy officer to show the way with his classic Omega Seamaster 300. Reportedly it was a gift from his later mother Princess Diana and clearly holds immense sentimentality to William. A watch that could have been purpose designed for an officer in the Royal Navy, and certainly one fit for a future King.
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The first moment was when I opened the box of this Rolex Sub 5513 dating from 1984. I checked my notes again. Then checked the watch again. Surely there was some mistake, because the watch before me looked nothing like a 36 year old watch. It was literally unworn. This isn't a 'good as new' watch, this is literally a watch that has been effortlessly transported from 1984 to the modern day. Complete with manufacturers stickers and with only a thorough service in 2019 to show for its years. (A service that left all the dials and hands untouched by the way).
Having found my breath and my verbal mojo I think it's safe to say this might be a once in a lifetime find for me. Needless to say the watch runs perfectly and I'm a little envious of the person who buys this watch and becomes the first person to wear it meaningfully. This Mk4 Matt dial submariner would be the perfect centrepiece for any collection. One of the greatest dive watches ever made and one of the finest examples I've ever come across.
And talking of great dive watches, this brings me to the second of this week's 'once in a lifetime examples'. (Can you have two once in a lifetime examples in the same week? Well I'm going to!)
If you were making a list of the greatest dive watches ever made, no doubt the above Rolex would make everyone's lists, along with the usual suspects of Omega etc. But anyone with an ounce of knowledge of the history of Dive watches would place a Blancpain on that venerable list. And if you really know your dive watches (and I think you do) then you'd quite possibly put the Blancpain Bathyscaphe 1st release at the very top of that lofty list. This is quite possibly one of the rarest and least appreciated important dive watches in history. And I've got one! (for now at least)
This beautiful Blancpain Bathyscaphe 1st release is one of the rarest dive watches you can find. The Bathyscaphe was manufactured for only a short period and, in fact, for only the first year with an automatic movement, as with this example, making these one of the scarcest Blancpain dive watches available. Yet, strangely, they remain currently something of a secret although I can safely guarantee that is changing now and prices are sure to go in only one direction.
The 34mm stainless steel case is in very good original condition with great case definition and the original Bakelite bezel has survived remarkably over the last 60 odd years.The dial is finished in a gunmetal grey and finished with steel baton markers and hands and the whole piece is remarkably wearable even today. If you want a watch that tells a story as equally well as it tells the time then this could be the investment for you.
Even as I write these words with these two exceptional watches sat on my desk I can feel the pang of pain I will feel when I finally sell them. I was a collector before I was a dealer and it's these two watches that remind me where that passion came from originally.
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To start with, take this stunning Lemania RAF issue from 1967, in my opinion one of the most wearable vintage military watches you could ever hope to own. (I promise, this really is a watch from 1967!). Lemania provided the RAF with chronographs from 1955 until 1970 and this piece which dates to 1967 is the last version, the Mk111 using the manual wind shock protected calibre 2220.
Few brands are quite as synonymous with flying watches as Hamilton. These two amazing examples from 1972 and from 1979 are also incredibly wearable and historically significant (aren't all Hamiltons?). If you want a military watch that is likely to have flown at Mach 2 and seen active engagement over their 50 year history then you can't go wrong with Hamilton.
Perhaps one of my favourite amongst my own collection is this 1970's CWC RAF issued chronograph, a watch that has, in actual fact, been fitted with a replacement case back from a 1970 Hamilton. I simply love these quirks of history that often tell a story of a watch, and the journey it has undertaken, far more vividly than I could ever recount. The fact is when the RAF specified their chronograph watches they inadvertently ensured that the manufacturers would create interchangeable parts. What happened to the original case back on this CWC we may never know. But the result is, at some point it must have ended up in a MOD stores department where the back was replaced with a 1970 Hamilton case back.
These are the stories that can often be inferred as a result of the living history represented by these watches. What I do know is that all of these incredible pieces will almost certain remind us that Every day is Remembrance Day.
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I'm not particularly a man of action, unless you count walking the dogs every morning, in which case I'm Jason Bourne! Likewise it's unlikely I'll be called upon anytime soon to lead a beach assault with the Special Boat Service or, indeed, be required to leap from an aircraft over enemy territory (extra large parachute for me please!) And yet....and yet.... Put a vintage military watch on my wrist and I'm there. Steely eyed and focused, ready to do what needs to be done. There is just something so wonderful and inspiring about a vintage military watch.
These are timepieces built for action. Built for men and women who operate in a world of absolute certainty and functionality. Stripped bare of superfluous features they are designed to deliver the right information clearly and concisely. Design is influenced hugely by operational environment and that makes for a wide variety of options for the keen enthusiast. Those are the stories I love about these watches. Why a second world pilots watch has a 55mm face (unheard of at the time) with super legible indices for night time missions, to the fact that a military issue army watch blends perfectly with relevant camouflage. Many of the developments dictated by military requirements have gone on to influence generations of watches. One only has to look at the Dirty Dozen, watches commissioned by the MOD for use in WW2 to see the impact of military design extend throughout the 20th century.
Resilience too is a given, as is mechanical excellence. If you can't withstand the challenges presented by military service, you have no right being classed as a military grade watch. Likewise if you can't guarantee accuracy then missions could be at risk! So even watches from the second world war are still as wearable today as they were 80 years ago. Some achievement! And they often wear their battle scars in a way that makes them all the more enjoyable for me. Whilst the most action they are likely to see these days is a brisk walk across the local fields, it's a real pleasure to gaze at the face of a watch that has not only seen more life than me, but has probably survived scrapes and adventures the like of which I could only imagine. I think that's one of the reasons I started collecting watches all those years ago. The stories I imagined they told me and the pleasure I derived in trying to picture the journeys they had been on. That's why, perhaps more than any other category of watch, military watches still have the capacity to capture my imagination in a unique way. Or maybe I am a man of action after all and I just haven't realised it yet.
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Sometimes you need to see them side by side to appreciate the sheers quality and excellence of watches offered by Omega over the years. There's no doubt you can easily spot the design heritage of all of these watches but you can also clear see the way Omega has adapted over the years to reflect the design cues of each generation and decade.
The net result is a selection of watches that simply take the breath away. From Speedmasters to Seamasters with the odd Geneve thrown in for good measure, the names may be the same but the wealth of design options really does prove that Omega has something for every taste. And, crucially every pocket as well. I can wax lyrical over a £1000 Omega chronograph from the 1970's just as easily as I can about a £20,000 1960's Speedmaster moon watch. Omega really do span the vintage market in a way no other brand can quite do.
Which is why, when I began trading in watches, I quickly identified Omega as the cornerstone of my own collection and the watches I offered to the public. I was delighted to be recognised as an official supplier of vintage Omega watches and as a result I've built up a collection of Omega's that I think are amongst the best you can find from an independent collector.
Take a look here at what I think is one of the best collections of vintage Omegas online.
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Ok, in a list of famous footballing Icons perhaps Omega isn't the first name that springs to mind but, for me, this Omega Soccer Time is perfect reflection of the most iconic decade of the beautiful game. Subtle it isn't, but if you're looking for a watch that captures the joy and passion of the world's most popular game then you would struggle to find anything to compare with this Cal.861 powered chronograph.
The 1970's was once called the decade style forgot but I am pleased to say that is definitely not the case with this watch. The bold case designs and use of colour are incredibly sought after and for me this is another excellent piece that has it all.
With a face that's a carnival of colour this Omega reference 145.019 or "Soccer Time" as it is known features stunning black and red chronograph subdials. What distinguishes the Soccer Timers from other cal. 861 powered Omega chronographs of its era is the minute recorder sub-dial is marked with a 45-minute indicator below the “30.” This feature was included to make it easier to time halves of a soccer match, although today with VAR it might need to run to 50 minutes per half. In an era before smart technology and electronic match timing imagine how wonderful it would have been to see this stunning piece adorn the wrist of 1970's referees. At the very least it might have made them slightly more popular figures!
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Fast forward (an undisclosed) number of years and the opposite seems to be the case. Almost every brand in the world strives to provide anything but a white faced watch. And I don't mean, silver, graduated, cream or off white. I mean white. Pure as freshly fallen, crispy snow, white.
So nowadays it almost comes as slight shock to see a pure white watch face. So much so I think it makes a wonderful change to the usual watch rotation. Recently I've been wearing this stunning Omega Speedmaster baby snoopy and the white face makes such as refreshing change to this iconic timepiece. A watch that is so instantly recognisable in it's standard black face form can really raise eyebrows in this classic snoopy guise.
Likewise this classic Rolex Explorer Polar (one of the very best Rolex investments in my view) just stands out in any crowd, much like its oyster perpetual sister which is quite simply one of the best dress watches around.
But perhaps my favourite white faced watch at the moment is this incredible unworn 1948- 2012 London Olympic Games Omega Seamaster limited edition watch. A watch that is a perfect homage to the original seamaster but with great modern advances, the case size is a very wearable 39 mm which although modern retains its vintage feel not least down to the slightly domed crystal. It's white face, silver case combination just screams vintage heritage and is a classic example of the less is more theory of design.
And with a limited run of just 1948 pieces all I can say is there must be 1947 other lovers of white faced watches making their friends green with envy.
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As I wrote last week I think the new sub is a very nice watch and probably a future classic. But what it seems to have done, more than anything, is stimulate the used market into meltdown. And where demand goes up, so does the value of those watches. And if history tells us anything there are few timepieces that generate a bull market quite like the Rolex Submariner.
The truth is the whole history of Rolex Submariners is littered with classics that have proven resistant to the competition, economic downturns, impersonators and changes in cultural tastes. As always the thing about Subs is the glacial evolution of the design. (I'd still argue you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between this 1963 model and this one from 1984.) Rolex have always had the knack of making subtle changes in line with the ever changing zeitgeist. In fact in many instances they have led the way in setting the trends of tomorrow.
That makes them incredibly contemporary and incredibly wearable. And with that bomb proof build quality it's hard to think of an investment that is so close to a sure thing that you can enjoy day in day out. So if you've ever been tempted perhaps now is the time to take the plunge with a Sub. That is if you can find one of course!
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Because that's right folk, the new Sub range has gone from a historical 40mm to a whopping 41mm! It's clearly the end of days. Except it isn't really. Of all the things to notice about the new Submariner, the case size is the very last of them. Take a look at the new Kermit variation with black face and green bezel. Ok it's replacing a classic in the shape of the Hulk and there's no doubt Kermit doesn't have quite the same presence in terms of naming as it's predecessor... But whisper it quietly, I quite like the balance. The same for the blue Cerachrom bezel option. It's a great addition in my view. Those are the differences that literally jump off the page, but, for me, the new size isn't one of them.
I know it doesn't take a lot to make watch lovers froth so I understand the questions that arise whenever a watch manufacturer as brand savvy as Rolex makes a change of any kind. There may be many good reasons for the change of course. The collection is being overhauled with new movements, caliber 3230 for the Submariner, and 3235 for the Submariner Date, both state-of-the-art Rolex movements that are being used in the Submariner for the first time. They offer 70-hour power reserves compared to 48 hours in previous movements. But I don't think that's the reason for the bigger case. I think Rolex are, to a certain extent, following the trend in gradual stages for slightly larger watches with more presence. Customers have quietly been asking the question for a long time now. Personally I think it makes little difference, but I understand the thinking from Rolex here.
What I would say however, is that I'm already noticing a distinct upsurge in demand for the discontinued models. Some beautiful pieces I've had a for a little while now have suddenly flown off the shelves. (Don't worry there are still some classic pieces left). It's that perculiar characteristic of Rolex watches that they almost become more valuable to people once they are discontinued. It's a theory I've had a for a very long time that once people become acutely aware that they aint making any more like it, a watch becomes infinitely more desirable.
Whatever your view on the new Rolex Submariner range, one thing is for sure. In a year of turmoil and uncertainty it's nice to be talking about a watch that is the very definition of stability and reliability, instead of all the other things we have to worry about.
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It's as though Mr Rolex and Mr Omega (I know I know) completed their Subs, GMT's, Speedies and Railmasters and took one look at them and thought "yep, they'll never be bettered" You know what? I think they were right too. They've been copied, parodied, tweaked and relaunched but, in my view and the view of a great many people who know watches better than me, they really have never been bettered.
That's not to say Rolex and Omega aren't always trying to find improvement. in the same way Mrs Watch Collector is constantly on at me to lose weight and exercise more, it's important to try and find improvements where you can. But sometimes, just sometimes, you have to stand back and say this is one occasion where the word 'timeless' really does apply.
I actually had to dig these pieces out again to check I wasn't mistaken when I looked at their age. I honestly thought if I'd told you this Rolex Submariner Gilt Swiss was 57 years old you wouldn't believe me. And I can only speculate that this Omega Speedmaster 2998 must have been blasted into space and left in a time capsule, so immaculately preserved is it's case and legendary Cal 321 movement. Just stunning, all of them. And as appealing to the modern buyer as they would have been when I was taking my first tentative steps.
For me, they encapsulate the thrill of owning a vintage watch that not only tells you the time perfectly still, but embodies a time itself. These are the watches that should be the cornerstone of any collection. Im looking at them now sat on my study desk wondering what the next 50 years of history will look like them. Perhaps by then I'll have shifted that last stone as well!
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However a watch that has always captured my imagination is the Jaeger Le Coultre Reverso. Ok I know the world isn't full of Polo players but the fact this watch was designed at the behest of players of this elite sport, to protect their watches whilst playing has always been a cracking tale of just how imaginative watch makers can be. A simple solution would have been to use a protective cage as used on earlier world war one timepieces but that would have ruined the aesthetics of any timepiece, so the solution was a watch that is able to slide out of its frame and turn around completely, so protecting the fragile glass. Genius and beautiful.
This example from c 2002 is the Grand Taille and today the 26 mm x 42 mm case is perfect for ladies or gents ,The watch case is solid 18ct gold and the outer case is stainless steel ,true to the original design concept ,giving you an elegant watch that is also very well protected. To complete the unique look this stunning piece is fitted to an original JLC Ostrich strap completed with an original JLC deployment clasp. Function and style in perfect union. And the perfect watch to celebrate a return to normality. (I think at least).
Ok, I know many of you won't be returning to a career on the polo field this September and the need for a watch that flips to protect it's timeless face might not be high on your list of needs. But more than ever I think as we return to a more regular life, a little extravagance might be just in order.
]]>So it turns out there are a lot of dive watch enthusiasts out there! And more importantly a lot of dive watch enthusiasts who like the idea of owning something with a little more individuality.
After my piece last week about some of the lesser known brands from the 60's and 70's that rivalled Rolex and Omega I was inundated with requests for more information about those pieces from Marc Nicolet, Enicar Sherpa and Elgin. I was, of course, happy to oblige. As a result of those enquiries I stumbled across a few other pieces from my collection that I thought might be of interest to collectors and lovers of dive watches. The three pieces I've returned to are the Doxa Searambler (love that name) the Bulova Snorkel Skin Diver and Waltham Blancpain Paul Newman
Perhaps three watches that are a little better known than last weeks magic threesome but brands that are, none the less, not first choice these days. But I have no idea why. These exquisite vintage pieces just scream functional dive utility in a way that just elevates them above their more ubiquitous contemporaries. They possess an individual design charm that ensures they'll turn heads and generate polite enquiries in a way other, more well known brands, simply can't do.
All were built to be used and all of them look as though they have lived a life as well. That's how I like my utility sports watches. Add in some fantastic provenance and a price point that defies argument and I suspect my inbox will be just as full again this week!
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1. Money in the bank is worth pretty much nothing these days. In face the prospect of negative interest rates can’t be too far in the future. My question is do you really want to be paying a bank for the privilege of keeping your money?
2. Luxury items and, in particular, watches, are enjoying a resurgence in recent years with some astonishing appreciation in values. Not just for the major brands either. Time and again we see big jumps in value amongst watches that are, by their very nature, becoming rarer with each passing year.
"I’ve written multiple times here on why I love the 7150. I love all EPSA Super Compressors for the most part, but this design hits just right. One property of the 7150 that never fails to impress me is their sheer diversity. Some go grey, some go rusty, some go chocolate. It is a reference that wears its history on its dial more than most. For the most part, 7150 dials tend to degrade and discolour. Rare others just stay true to their original form. Today, we we’ve been treated to the safe queen variety and damn, it looks ace.
The 7150 was Longines’ initial generation of skin diver, featuring a 42mm Super Compressor case and an automatic cal 290. At 200m water resistance, it was as much a tool watch as anything out of Switzerland at the time. When worn on a simple NATO, it is one of the all-time great understated wrist aesthetics. Longines apparently agrees with me, as they reissued a variation of the 7150 a few years back, under the name Legend Diver. That reference doesn’t even touch the original, as far as I’m concerned.
This watch has taken its 60 year age with grace. The dial is sporting a warmth in its indices, matched through the handset. The inner rotating bezels used a different paint, unlumed. When original, they almost always contrast the dial with whiteness. That’s a good sign for originality. The same can be said for its crowns. The case is relatively strong. I may see slight roundness in the lugs, but it could be the black background. Honestly, it’s not really worth mentioning, the case is sharp. Its back is only lightly marked with the diver emblem proudly visible. It comes from a well-regarded UK retailer The Watch Collector. with its original box.